 |
| Mullayanagiri Chikmagalur |
Chikmagalur
is situated on the foothills of the famous Mullayanagiri peak of the Western Ghats,
which attracts tourists from around the year from India for its pleasant and
favorable climate, tropical rainforest, and coffee estates.
Chikmagalur Trip Planning
Life was following the same routine of home, hospital and a much-wanted escape were due. One fine day of May 2019, post night duty, I was sleepy and cooking. The clock struck 1, the phone started ringing and it was my colleague who wanted an urgent duty exchange. I got 2 days off after week-long night duties. We (husband and me) didn’t have to think much about what next.
I had heard a lot about this charming beauty, about 250 kilometers away from
Bangalore. Yes, that is CHIKMAGALUR. This beauty next door welcomes everyone
to the magnificent Western Ghats. ‘Chikmagalur’ is a simple word in Kannada formed
by Chikka-Magal-Uru meaning younger daughter’s town. History reveals that this
place was given as a gift to the younger daughter of a local King.
Q) How to reach Chikmagalur from Bangalore?
By road: car
or bus (state-run/private luxury bus)
- NH 75: ~ 240 km takes about 4 ½ - 5 hours; expect toll gates (4, if I remember correctly) crossing Nelamangala- Hassan- Belur.
- NH 48 and NH 69: an extra 30 km, takes about 5 ½ to 6 hours crossing Nelamangala- Tumkur- Hagalavadi-Sira Road- Hiremagalur.
By train: nearest
stations are Kadur-40 km and Hassan-60 km away.
By flight:
need to reach Bangalore International Airport and then take a cab/ bus.
Q) When is the best time to go Chikmagalur?
I would
say anytime! Each season has got its own special feel. Summer is very pleasant and
not very hot but the mighty waterfall may be missed. To watch the water-fall
in its glory, you need to go during the rainy season (June- September), then
trekking may not be feasible. So, just go when you feel like it.
Best option: road trip- car- August/September, driving through nature, enjoying the scenery and the cool breeze.
Day 1: Chikmagalur
Journey Begins
 |
| Way to Chikmagalur from Bangalore |
 |
| Shanthikunnj Homestay |
 |
| Kokum Juice |
 |
| Yellow and black ‘Car-a-Van |
We were taken to our room in a vehicle- car/jeep/truck? What do I call? Well, it was an old Maruthi 800 ‘renovated’ into a carrier van. It was exciting to see this innovation in the Land of Coffee! It was actually the owner’s car and they wanted to retain it rather than selling. Thus took birth, this yellow and black ‘car-a-van.’ What an idea, Sirjee!
Day 2: Baba Budangiri Trip
We got up by 6 am, ready for trekking as informed the previous night. Waited near the dining area, had the special coffee and by then Mr. Arivu came, along with his 2 cute Indian dogs, Raja and Rani. I am afraid of dogs but these 2 didn’t trouble me. They were walking ahead of us showing the right path. This morning walk must be a routine for them.
The slow flowing river, the sun rays falling on the water and getting reflected, the gentle sound of water hitting the rocks; my heart was popping out. Arivu was explaining about the coffee plants and the areas where they spotted tigers, elephants, etc. We could hear the echoing sounds of a few animals and birds. It was more of a long walk through a huge plantation rather than a typical trek.
Chikmagalur is the first place in India to have a coffee plantation, to be specific, The Baba Budangiri– named after Saint Baba Budan who brought coffee seeds from Mecca and planted them, making all of us getting addicted to Coffee.
 |
| Chikmagalur Coffee |
There are 2 types of coffee plants are commonly cultivated- Coffee arabica and Coffee robusta. Arabica is a coffee shrub that has a shorter harvesting time. Robusta grows taller like a tree and is more demanding when it comes to pollination, appropriate conditions for growth, etc. Most of the plantations have more of Arabica variety. The coffee fruit is called cherry which is dried and processed to make the seed and subsequently the coffee powder. Robusta seeds have more caffeine content and less sugar making it bitter compared to Arabica, but it has the greater yield and is less susceptible to pests and disease, hence obviously requiring lesser pesticides.
After
a long walk and gaining some knowledge on coffee, we enjoyed hot ‘akki roti’ and
coffee, sitting in the middle of nature. We went again to the river flowing
through the middle of the jungle. I could spot my husband holding a dried branch
and walking, like how our ancestors used to walk uphill. I walked across the
rocks, splashed water overhead, and became a kid again.
I just had
to close my eyes to open my eyes into nature, such a calm, serene environment. Sitting
on a rock, feet underwater, sun rays on my face, breeze on my hair, voices of
birds and animals, no honking, no sound of vehicles, it was like bliss! Time
just fled and we didn’t realize that it had been 2 hours. On the way back home,
we found an old coracle (the circular boat, you must have seen it whenever you checked
on Hogganekkal).
 |
| Hanging Bridge on River Tunga in Chikmagalur |
 |
| Beautiful Night View of Hanging Bridge |
Day 3: Mullayanagiri Trip
 |
| Mullayanagiri Chikmagalur |
Next in
the list was Mullayanagiri, the highest peak in Karnataka standing tall
amongst all the mountains. It felt that the road was ending right in front of
we and the drive uphill gave a feeling that we were going to take off into the
clouds!
 |
| Sarpadhari Mullayanagiri |
As we started climbing, the velocity of the wind was increasing and halfway through it started drizzling. What more could I ask for…! The child in me started jumping, out of mere pleasure. There were a lot of people around and at each 2 or 3 step, you would cross one. Some were adventurous, taking the trail and climbing over the rocks; some came purely out of boredom; some nature-lovers and a few like that young girl who wanted to become a film director, seen shooting the climax scene for her debut movie. After climbing around 500 steps, we were at the summit.
 |
| Highest peak Mullayanagiri in Chikmagalur |
At a
height of 6300 feet above sea level, all I could see was the brown mountains
wearing a green top, the fog, the bluish sky, covered with dark clouds making
me feel that I could just touch them if I leap enough. The people, cattle (yes,
even at this height), the ‘say cheese’ voices around; it was noisy yet I could
feel the inner silence.
There is a small temple at the top, which is of Mullappaswamy after whom the mountain is named. The Priest told us that the Saint used to meditate in a cave nearby and that there was a direct connection from the cave to the inside of the temple which was closed. It was really exciting to look around from the peak. As the sky started recruiting more and more dark clouds which were ready to pour on us; we started climbing down.
Caution:
- The irregular surface of steps- use proper shoes with grip and be careful, not to slip.
- Steps are slightly steeper at some places, better not to force elderly people to climb up.
Hirekolale Lake
 |
| Hirekolale Lake |
 |
| Hirekolale Lake (Chikmagalur) |
Note: There is
no toilet or shop, hence finish off all your needs before heading to this place.
During the return journey, we stopped at a juice shop, spent some time there sipping over a special lime juice prepared by the sweet lady; whose family had relocated to Chikmagalur, close to 50 years ago as plantation workers from Kerala. Another story to unfold.
You Should Read: Popular Hill Stations in India
Throughout
the drive, my eyes were searching for a hospital to work and a school for kids
because this place and the innocent lives of these people had touched me a lot
that I wanted to go back and be there. As the journey proceeded, we were moving
away from the blissful nature, to the crowded, noisy city life.
It has been a year and I really want to make another trip to explore the unexplored areas of this ‘younger daughter’s town.’
The mountains are yearning.
--------------- And I must
go. -------------
Surya G K